Library

The Wine Library

Profiles, guides, and field notes on the producers, regions, grapes, and places that shape our work including many we admire but dont import.

Recent Additions

Place·Japan

Villa Aida (ヴィラ アイーダ)

Villa Aida (ヴィラ アイーダ) is the Wakayama agriturismo restaurant of chef Koji Kobayashi (小林浩司). Operating in a remote Wakayama countryside setting with on-site vegetable production, Villa Aida combines Italian-trained technique with hyper-local Japanese ingredients and one of the country's most-thoughtful natural-wine pairing programs. The restaurant is a destination for serious Tokyo and international diners.

Term

2011 — Small-Winery Deregulation Expansion

In 2011, the Japanese government expanded the Wine Tokku-ku (Wine Special District) framework to additional prefectures, broadening the 2003 deregulation that lowered the wine production threshold from 6,000 to 2,000 liters. The 2011 expansion brought additional Hokkaido municipalities, additional Nagano valleys, and other prefectural areas under the lower threshold — accelerating the small-domain scene's emergence.

Place·Japan

Florilège (フロリレージュ)

Florilège (フロリレージュ) is Hiroyasu Kawate's Tokyo destination restaurant — French technique applied to Japanese ingredients, with one of the city's most-thoughtful Japanese-wine pairing programs. Multi-Michelin-starred and consistently among Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, Florilège has helped define how contemporary Tokyo fine-dining engages with Japanese wine.

Place·Japan

INUA (closed 2021) — Tokyo Noma Spinoff

INUA (イヌア) was the Noma-affiliated Tokyo restaurant of chef Thomas Frebel, operating from 2018 to 2021. Closed during pandemic-era restructuring, INUA was historically important for its rigorous engagement with Japanese ingredients in a Noma-style hyperlocal-foraging framework, with serious Japanese-wine pairing. Despite the closure, the restaurant's influence on contemporary Tokyo fine-dining has been substantial.

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Pre-1875 — Grape Cultivation in Japan Before Modern Wine

Grape cultivation in Japan has a long pre-modern history. The 718 AD Katsunuma origin myth, Kamakura-period (1185–1333) table-grape culture, and Edo-period (1603–1868) viticultural traditions established a centuries-deep grape-growing infrastructure that long preceded the 1875 first wine production attempt. Understanding pre-modern grape culture is necessary for understanding modern Japanese wine's structural foundations.

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1983 — Mercian's Asai Pioneers Sur-Lie Koshu

In 1983, Mercian winemaker Usuke Asai (1930–2002) released the first sur-lie Koshu — the technique of extended lees aging that transformed Koshu from simple table-grape-derived white into a serious fine-wine variety. The 1983 sur-lie release was the technical inflection point that made modern fine-wine Koshu possible; nearly every premium Koshu bottling produced since traces directly to Asai's 1983 innovation.

Place·Japan

NARISAWA (ナリサワ)

NARISAWA (ナリサワ) is Yoshihiro Narisawa's Tokyo destination restaurant — innovative Japanese cuisine combining nature-driven aesthetics with French technique, paired with one of Tokyo's most-rigorous Japanese-wine programs. Multi-Michelin-starred, consistently among the World's 50 Best, NARISAWA has been one of the foundational restaurants institutionalizing Japanese wine within international fine-dining.

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2013 — MBA OIV Registration + GI Yamanashi

In 2013, two foundational institutional events occurred for Japanese wine. Muscat Bailey A received OIV (International Organization of Vine and Wine) registration — international recognition of the variety as a legitimate wine grape. Separately, the National Tax Agency designated GI Yamanashi — Japan's first wine Geographic Indication. Together the two events represent 2013 as the institutional birth year of modern Japanese fine-wine standing.